We hooked up with Babiche
and Debra, his girlfriend, who just got to Bariloche. They were in South
America here as well on their first summer pilgrimage.
With a nice warm day
on the forecast, we picked them up to head to the resort, Cerro Catedral. It
has been a miserable year so far in Bariloche. Beside on big dump in the
beginning of July, it has been mostly dry on the hill.
With the warm weather
of the past weeks, it didn’t look at it best.
The beginner’s run was
probably the most miserable I’ve ever seen!
Apparently, the town
of Bariloche used to get some snow during the winter but it has been about 4-5
years that the snow hasn’t made it way in town.
The resort is really
in quite a stunning location. With the surrounding mountains around and the
lake Nahuel Huapi, the view is one of the best I’ve seen from a ski resort.
The cover was
certainly thin on the hill but where there was enough snow to make turns, the
conditions were great!
It was quite a
challenge not to hit rock; especially when we got closer to the lift at the
lower elevation. We all got some new scratches but nothing too serious.
With not much new snow
on the forecast, we made the plan to go up to the famous Refugio Frey to check
it out.
It is quite a pain to
get a single ride up from the resort. They are certainly not the most helpful
resort around. You have to be accompanied by a certified mountain guide to be
able to buy a single ride. We pretend that we were going cross-country skiing
(with our huge backpack) and just went to the gondola, didn’t look at the
liftie and jump on the lift.
There is 2 different
route you can take to make it to the hut. With the thin cover, it was some kin
of scrambling on the north faces. We eventually made it up to a col from where
we were able to make turns down a nice open 500+meters vertical run.
Even if it was south
facing and haven’t seen much sun to warm it up, we gave it a try.
Manu went first and on
its very first turn we heard him sream loud and clear: ‘’C’est dégueulasse!!!
(Its sucks big time!)’’
The run wasn’t any
epic and the uneven snow conditions add up to the heavy backpack made it pretty
hard to link turns.
But if linking the
turns weren’t easy, it was nothing compared to was waiting. With the thin snow coverage, the trees
were really dense.
It was probably my
worst skin up ever!
We were making our way
up a quite steep slope through some fairly dense bush.
The choices were
either making switchback on branches and trees or bootpacking on really weak
snow that was collapsing under our weight.
We eventually reached
the hut 5 hours later…
The hut is probably
the best one in South America for backcountry skiing. It is so well equipped that
you can kind of forget that you are in the backcountry. With electricity,
radio, telephone, party music, cheap wine it certainly has its own vibe.
The hut has room for
about 30 people but it must be really crowded since the common area if
relatively small.
We were lucky since
there wasn’t too many people there since the snow conditions sucked.
We spend the following
day hiking around the hut and just spending the day out. The snow wasn’t really
great, but it was still pretty cool to check out the terrain surrounding the
hut.
We even spend part of
the day shoveling a quarter pipe to shoot some jibbing action from Manu.
I really wish the
conditions would have been better, but you have to enjoy what you have! With
some great conditions, it should be quite epic!
We left the following
morning to go back.
We weren’t looking
forward to ski down through the steep thick bush slope. It wasn’t as bad as the
way up, but all in all, I linked probably 3 turns the whole 400m…
The snow on the hike
up to the col was a bit firm but the climb was quite fast anyway. Good things Babiche as brought crampons along since Amélie's teleboot weren't digging much deep into the snow.
Some enjoy the view
their own way…
We had planned that
trip well since some cold beer were waiting for us.
We kept the feasting
mood and head to the El Boliche de Alberto for some great Argentinan cuisine.
We were served the best and biggest steak I’ve had in a long time! We ate so
much that in the end, we could barely finish the wine we ordered!
We spend the following
day driving and chilling around Bariloche. We visited some (apparently) old
Nazi bunker, a burned hotel, a quite posh hotel and a rocky beach!
There was some new
snow on the forecast so we waited to see if that was really going to happen. ..
It snowed a bit
overnight but not enough to get excited. With the usual wind and the poor
visibility in the alpine, that wasn’t a day to even think about going up to the
resort.
Instead, with Amelie,
we left all our friends in Bariloche and hit the road to slowly start our drive
north back to Chile.
The wind gusts were
fierce and I was quite glad the road was clear since the van was shacking left
to right!
We drove all day and
finally made it to Las Lajas on the Argentinean side just to realize to pass
was closed due to the poor weather conditions.
With the new snow, we
turned around and head to Caviahue to check out the resort. The road condition
this time was really poor!
We slept on the side
of the road and made it to Caviahue just the following morning. The weather
certainly didn’t cleared up too much overnight as the whole town seemed to be
stuck and shut down due to snow.
We thought about going
up to make some turns, but the wind was almost sweeping us off our feet!
Instead of clearing
the road, they were using the grooming machine from the resort to groom the
streets!!!
A groom street after
some wind draft really looks like a cleared street and after a few minutes of
driving around town, we eventually got stuck!
It took us about an
hour to shovel ourselves out and we left town right after.
The pass was still
closed and with more bad weather on the forecast, no one wanted to say when it
was going to open. We met 2 different people who told us that our best chance
to cross over to Chile was to make a 4-5 hours drive south and try the Hito
Icalma pass.
We debates for a few
minutes and quickly made our mind to drive there.
We had to put the
chains 4 times to make it to the border and we got there just before it closes.
The border patrol told us that they could let us go, but the border in Chile
would certainly be close.
I figured it would be
nice to have a last Argentinean steak before leaving and I made the call to
stay overnight in Villa Pehuenia and make the short 8km drive the following
morning since it looks like the storm was coming to an end!
Leaving to good life
of Argentina for Chile in the morning!
evans
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